Dance of death in Verges
On Plaça Major in Verges, the passion play takes place each year on Maundy Thursday, 10 pm. Later, the outstandingly infamous procession moves through the small streets of the village. At 9pm, the meadows in front of the gates are already covered in cars. Neither knowing the place, nor where to go, we follow the crowd and end up at the barrier of the village’s centre. We have no tickets yet and are told to go to the counter. It is located at the other end of Verges and not easily to be found. Finally, we arrive at Plaça Major and are told to take our seats.
Additionally, there is a summary of the play in all languages online this year (www.laprocesso.com).
The costumes’ rich colouring makes you forget about the fact that the play is lengthy at times. Around midnight, the procession finally forms and starts wandering through the narrow alleys. Luckily, we find a good place in an alleyway.
The procession is amazing
The procession is amazing; the dead are dancing, the Romans are whirling around their spears and the penitents are hidden by large, pointy hats. The saints are sitting on carriages, crowned with flowers, while Jesus is carrying the heavy cross. A few girls are lugging Maria on their shoulders. Temptingly, the flowers’ fragrance wavers through the night. The procession is of a peculiar yet intriguing beauty, the medieval setting of the village adding to the dramatic atmosphere.
All bars and shops are open through the night. The village is vibrating and the natives and their guests are watching from their balconies. Conclusion: an experience you do not want to miss! Even without a ticket, you can watch the magnificent procession as it moves through the streets. Just make sure you arrive well before the beginning, in order to get a decent place. Each year, more visitors come to watch – and in spite of the mystical theme, the atmosphere is more that of a folk festival. Around 3am we leave the crowd and search for a place in a pavement café at the outskirts of the village. A chilly breeze has come up and we are grateful for the heater. A glass of sparkling wine causes us to wake up again. The procession seems to be nearing its end. Still, the Mas Pi is filled to the last place and people keep celebrating until dawn.