Captured on canvas

Parts of the major motion picture “Perfume” were shot in Catalonia. One of the places chosen as scenic backdrops was Castell de Requesens. The castle’s majestic ruin is situated in the Serra de l’Albera region, close to the French-Spanish border. The region is unique in its wild beauty, hosting stone- and cork oaks, pines, chestnut trees, and elms, as well as Mediterranean meadows and bushes, the latter being home to an impressing display of wildlife: boars, deer, wildcats, eagles, hawks, lizards and snakes.
A number of walking tracks leads through those mountains. One of them also leads around the castle of Requesens, which matches our plans very well indeed as this is where we are heading today.

Approach description

In La Jonquera, we leave the NII and continue in the direction of Cantallops on a small road winding up the hill. Once in Cantallops, finding the castle is a piece of cake; it is well signed. The street however, is made from tarmac up to Cantallops only. It then continues as a gravel path which is not altogether suited for lowered cars. There also is a cattle gate in the middle of the road – which should not be taken as an indication for “no traffic“. Just open the gate, do not forget to close it behind you, and carry on. Mind the cows! They live in the forests and might cross the road. The gate is supposed to keep them from getting lost in the valley. The cows are wearing bells; a dull, soft sound announces their arrival. Albera cows are small as compared to other species. They are quite rare and roam freely through the Albera region.

History of the Castell de Requesens

A long time ago, Requesens castle was in charge of the surrounding area. Situated on a hill, it seems to dominate the region even today. Apart from that, it also serves as a starting point for several hiking tracks through the Albera mountains.
We cross Rio Anyet and follow the steep path to our left, up to the hill. The view of the snow-covered Pyrenees is fantastic, especially on a clear day.
Requesens Castle was built in the 11th century. Constructed by the dukes of Rousillon, it was first meant to be a stronghold for protection of the boarders. As the centuries went by, it changed hands frequently, slowly decaying to ruin in the process. In the 19th century, however, Tomas Rocaberti de Damento, duke of Peralada, ordered that Requesens be reconstructed. De Damento was known for having a soft spot for everything romantic – and he was very generous in adding many amorous details. Enchanted, with winding floors and ornate crenellates and small towers – Requesens castle became what one might expect to find in a fairy tale. But all glamour was lost during the regime of Franco. And once the armed forces had left, pillaging started. Anything that was not nailed down disappeared forever. In the 60ies, the castle became a retreat for Hippies. Later on, Salvador Dali briefly considered buying and restoring the castle, but in the end he decided for Pubol castle, which turned out to be a present for his muse, Gala. Castell de Requesens has since been used as a backdrop for movies, such as “El Caballero del Dragon” and “Perfume”.
These days, the keys to the old building are only handed out on request. We recommend you ask for more detailed information in the old Masia close to the castle. They also serve delicious hot lunch there. Nuri, new chef “La Cantina”, prepares the meals using all the healthy ingredients found in her garden. We had crunchy fresh salad, grilled lamb and “pan con tomate“. The atmosphere is warm and friendly, almost homely, and the other guests as well as the chef are always willing to chat. If arriving with a bigger group we suggest you speak to Nuri first: you might have to book tables. Tel.: 972193081.

Maps for all the major hiking routes are available in the tourist office La Jonquera – Tel. 972 55 40 05, www.lajonquera.net.

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In the 19th century, the Catalan poet Jacint Verdaquer called Lake Banyoles a shield made of silver (un escudo de plata). This morning however, it is shimmering in a dark turquoise, while reeds are reflected by the surface. Shrouded in legends, the lake has always had a special, magical appeal. We are thus not the only ones enjoying the lake’s peaceful atmosphere on this early Thursday morning. Luckily, the smelly dragon has been defeated centuries ago, and the floating fairies remain hidden as well.
Instead, there are many tourists on bicycles. The new tourist information is located in one of the small antique bath houses at the lake’s banks. Here we are handed a map and are given some information concerning the city. The project “Life Nature” has led to many improvements: there are new ways now, as well as bridges made of wood, view points, perfect sign posts and much useful information about the nature in and around Lake Banyoles. The project aims to save the landscape around the sea, and to bring it back to its natural state. We take a walk around the lake, following the hiking trail. The map says, that we will need about 2,5 hours for this way of approximately 8 kilometers.
Catalonia’s largest lake (107hectares) is fed by several submontane springs and streams. Every second, up to 600 liters reach the surface, coming from depths of 6 to 62 meters. Archeologial excavations all around the lake provide evidence of Paleolithic and Neolithic cultures, especially around the Neolithic settlement la Draga.

Fish is jumping high. A fisher tries to cheat on it. Scared, a coot vanishes between the reeds; the ducks never stop gabbling. We pass an outdoor swimming pool and several restaurants, and are soon greeted by the forest’s welcoming coolness. Marsh plants can be found here, growing as they will, fresh and green. In regular intervals, small paths lead to the lake and its Miradors – view points. Some­times, one might spot a widgeon, a coot or even a kingfisher. Today, we only see a swan, which has been attracted by somebody sharing their bread with it. Ever since the oarsmen’s world championship took place here in 2004, there has been a look-out tower at the other end of the lake. We climb up and are granted a view over the whole lake. At the other shore, and some kilometers along our way, we take a break close to the church Santa Maria de Porqueres. This building is a true gem among Roman churches and dates bacak to the 12th century. We are surprised to find the door wide open. Inside, there is a Roman baptistery, a huge capitals and magnificently painted sculptures. It is twelve o’clock and the bells begin to ring. In the meantime, the sun has hidden behind fleecy clouds.

The fountain “Font del Rector” is very refreshing, and we find rest in the shade of sycamore trees and white poplars. Weeping willows bow deeply; the landscape is charming in its silence. The wind is soft on our faces. Around 1pm, the parking lot fills with guests eager to have lunch at the restaurant “la masia”. The menu is available for 13 Euro. We decide to make a detour to the old town of Banyoles. Traffic has been banned from the city, and now some plazas and alleys are pedes­trian areas. The plaza major invites the guests to stay and admire the old palaces, arcades and cafes. On Wednesdays the plaza is crowded though, due to the market taking place. It is a good opportunity to buy the region’s freshest products. A second Tourist information is situated in one of the city’s most splendid buildings. The old mill ” Cal Moliner” is known for being very old and still intact. It is an attraction.

Pere Arpa’s restaurant “El Rebost d’en Pere”

When we ask for a good restaurant, we are introduced to Pere Arpa, the new star of Banyoles. His restaurant “El Rebost d’en Pere” was awarded a Michelin Star in November. With only 22 places, the restaurant is rather small. It is situated in a small alley. The menu Destacio is available for 46 Euro. While the interior is modest, the plates are an eye-catcher. The chef was born into a family of gastronomes. He studied art in Barcelona, but after successfully finishing his degree he returned to his family and traditions. He became an apprentice to well-known chefs and opened his own restaurant after eight years. His menus are creative, surprising and never boring. Best products are the base of everything, and the ingredients’ own taste is of great importance to the chef. He has a favour for opinionated contrasts, such as sweet and salty, sour and spicy, warm and cold, and the guests enjoy this symphony of his meals. Nobody will leave his restaurant hungry: the saying “brevity is the soul of the wit” certainly does not apply here.

We give our compliments to the chef, and so do the Japanese at the other table. A walk to the cloister and through the town is exactly what we need now. On our way, we pass a few boutiques and delicatessen shops. We recommend Banyoles for a quiet summer day, spent far away from beaches invaded by tourists.

Infos: www.estanyespainatural.net

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Gone with the wind

The Tramuntana seems to be half asleep this morning. Even in Llanca, there barely is more than a moderate breeze. This is striking us as curious as the weather forecast had announced yet another day of heavy storms. The infamous Tramuntana had been bothering us for days, brining cold gusts of wind right from the mountains.
Now, there are only a couple of clouds making their way from the Pyrenees and down the plains of the Empordà, heading for the Mediterranean Sea. It is a splendid sight, and the landscape turns into a dream of indescribable beauty. We are about to meet someone for a boating trip, starting in Llanca, and going all the way to Cap de Creus. The trip is taking place as a part of the gastro campaign “the Fishes of Cap de Creus”. Due to the weather forecast and the threat of storms, the route has been slightly changed, though. Now we will start later and head for Portbou first. We thus have a few minutes of free time and seize them grabbing a coffee at the harbour, watching fishing boats and small yachts bobbing up and down on the water.

The Canyon of Cap de Creus was formed by a river, a long time ago when the Mediterranean Sea’s level was way lower than it is today. The inundated abyss is very steep, with cold water coral reefs growing on the rocks. The fishes especially like this place, because it offers plenty of different sources of food. Some of them are popular fishes for everyday consumption. They are usually caught in a traditional way, which involves long fishing rods that reach down to the ground. In Catalonia, these are known as Palangres. Often, a major rod, measuring more than 100 metres in length, is lowered to the ground. The major rod has regular branches, and on each tip of a branch, there is a prey or a hook. Unfortunately, these branches may get caught in the cold water coral reefs, bringing damage to both the Palangre and the coral. Therefore, marine biologists are now considering declaring the corals an endangered species and turning the Canyon into a nature protection area.

We are leaving at last! Soon, the harbour of Llanca lies behind us, and we make our way through crystal clear water, passing rocks, small beaches and a coast line dominated by dark green stone pines. We float along abord the ship, and many places pass us by: Platja de Grifeu, Cala Canyelles, Platja de Garbet, and finally Colera. We then make for Portbou. The scenery is mostly idyllic, with only a few new buildings scattered on the hills. Down on the ground, small fishes swim about between colourful rocks and stones, hiding among sea urchins. The water in the small bays is clear and clean, and the Catalans know that they are the perfect place for taking a bath. Peak season is yet to come – and even on Sundays the shores are almost empty, except for a few local tourists. Most of the yachts are still moored safely in the harbour.

The scenery between Llanca and the French border is amazing. It may not be quite as bizarre as the rocky coastline along Cap de Creus, called a “grand geological delirium” by Salvdor Dalí, but wind and water have formed something truly unique and spectacular here as well. Seen from the sea, the shore seems to be made up of interesting sculptures, as modern and artful as no artist could form them.

We are thoroughly enjoying ourselves and the trip along this scarcely inhabited coast. The monument in honour of Walter Benjamins looks different from the distance. Ornament, contrast, cenotaph – Dani Karavan has created something truly inspiring when he built the walk-in monument in honour of Walter Benjamins.

Blinding white spray behind the boat. Gulls afloat on the wind. On the way back, all we do is relax, enjoy the summer sun and dream of not doing anything at all – sometime in the distant future. Perhaps.

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Olot – Garrotxa

The Festivals of Tura in September are the main festival of Olot to honor the patron saint of the city. They are considered one of the most important traditional festivals of Catalonia and are declared of national interest by the Department of Culture of the Generalitat of Catalonia. Since the mid-19th century people celebrate the patron saint of Olot for five days around the 8th of September with a huge city festival full of events and activities together with traditional culture.

The Mother of God of Tura is a Romanic black madonna from the 12th century. According to a legend, she was discovered by an ox. This was pawing repeatedly on the floor until the owner began to dig at that point and so discovered the figure. Tura was the regional old catalan word for ox, so that the patron saint actually is called Mother of God of Ox.

Processions and traditions

Not be missed in this town festival in honor of the Mother of God of Tura is the 4-meter-high giant pair of plaster. Dancing they draw everyone´s attention and are accompanied by the „Cap de Lligamosques“ – the head of the fly catcher – and ten animal figurines, each representing their district.

People in horse costumes gallop behind the drums and chapels. 5 days Olot is celebrating the patron saint and besides the procession, there are many more traditional Catalan activities, such as the „Correfoc“ (fire run), the „Sardanas“ (folk dance), the „Correbou“ (bull run) and the „Castellers“ (human towers).
Attention: The „Turinada“ is one of the highlights of the festivities. During the nightly parade through the town, water is sprayed from the balconies. Also buckets and hoses are used. Drummers are creating a lively atmosphere. The enthusiastic crowd is dancing in a wet shower of confetti. Be warned and grab yourself a change of clothing.

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Centre of reproduction for the turtles of the Albera

If you visit the Serra l’Albera, the northernmost part of the Pyrenees, you shouldn´t miss the Centre of Reproduction for the turtles of the Albera. In this centre, the mediterranean species “testudo hermanni hermanni” is reproduced and observed.
Outside of the small village Garriguilla situated, the centre is settled on the terrain of an old romanic church. Already the forecourt, surrounded by trees and fields, invites you to a picknick.

You reach the entry and the information centre by crossing the yard. They builded a footbridge, whereon you can go through the turtle´s preserve, without disturbing them in their composure. It is advisable to visit the centre in the morning. That´s when the activity of the animals is at its highest point and you can find several turtles straight off.
In the end of the circular walk are a few more smaller preserves. These show some other sorts of turtles, among others gigantic turtles and tortoise so as species from Africa, Asia and Centralamerica.
After the circular court, you can watch a documentation about life and dangers, which the animals face in their natural habitat. The film shows very empathically the threats of the animals and says how urgent it is to save this species. The purpose of the centre is the raising of the population by reproduction to prevent the turtles from dying out.

The admission fee helps to preserve the centre and to support several studies of biological and ecological aspects. An informative excursion in the animal kingdom of Catalonia, which is also because of its iydillic surrounding, worth to visit.

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Vilajuïga -> Sant Pere de Rodes -> Port de la Selva

On a day with light Tramuntana we drove in the direction of Vilajuïga. There a small signposted road leads through the town towards the mountains. Just behind the village the landscape changes and gets mountain character: rocky green mountain meadows, gnarled holm and cork oak groves, in between a flock of sheep, birds chirping. The narrow road winds its way up the mountains. We enjoy the solitude.
Then the tremendous former Benedictine monastery Sant Pere de Rodes comes into sight. First mentioned in 902, the first decades of the 10th century were marked by a spiritual and material prosperity. Until today the monument on the edge of the Pyrenees is shrouded in numerous legends. They talk of buried treasures – an iron chain in which the Apostle Peter was allegedly tied up – a rain cape of St. Thomas Becket, that is expected to increase fertility – a holy cross, after which the Cap de Creus was named – and the dissolute life of some monks. Other legends tell that before the monastery was erected there had been the temple of the «Aphrodite of the Pyrenees» and that the remains of the Apostle Peter are buried there.

During its heyday in the 11th Century, Sant Pere de Rodes and its famous writing school were a spiritual center. Precious manuscripts of illumination were created then. One example is the «Bible of Rodes», which is now kept in the Bibliothèque Nationale in Paris.
The former Benedictine monastery is one of the most important romanesque buildings of the Costa Brava. It towers 500 meters above sea level and offers spectacular views. It owes its dominant position to the Pirates, who destabilised the coasts at the founding time of the monastery.
The whole complex impresses with architectural monumentality in a spectacular landscape. In summer, piano concerts are held in one part of the monastery. A restaurant offers a great view of the mountains and the sea and invites hungry hikers for a lunch menu.
Accessible only by foot is the higher grounded Castell de Salvador, from which one enjoys a magnificent view of the monastery and the sea. Every day the first sunbeam of Catalonia falls on the Castle of San Salvador de Verdera.

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Sant Feliu de Guíxols

Rocking stones are a spectacular phenomenon: they are immense rocks so situated that the least touch can make them rock in one certain direction, but which cannot be made to move in any other by all the force that can be applied to them by unaided humans. It seems incomprehensible how they are able to hold their balance, which has led to many myths and legends. It was said, for example, that the rocking stones were a giant’s toy.

On the Costa Brava, near Sant Feliu de Guíxols, we find one of the biggest logans of Europe: The Pedralta is a granite boulder which is approximately 3.5 meters high, 4 meters wide and 6 m long. It used to balance on a tower of rocks which are much smaller than himself. In 1996, however, it lost its natural balance due to an intense storm. It was replaced in 1999, but it is not able to rock any more. Nevertheless, it is worthwhile visiting this impressive geological monument. A little above the Pedralta there is a Mirador from where, on a clear day, one can enjoy spectacular views over the sea and the landscape.

How to get there: Take the southern exit to Sant Feliu de Guíxols and then follow the sign “La Pedralta” right into the mountains. Keep following the deteriorating small asphalt road about 5 km uphill through the oak forest. If you like hiking, of course you can also park your car and walk the same route.

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The capital of the region of Garrotxa

Olot is the capital of the region of Garrotxa. The medieval buildings that made up this town were destroyed in the 1427 and 1428 earthquakes. At present, the most remarkable feature of the city is its intense cultural and artistic life. Olot still preserves some interesting monuments, like the parish church of Sant Esteve, from the 18th century, which has the Baroque altarpiece of El Roser; the sanctuary of Mare de Déu del Tura, from the late 18th century; the cloister of El Carme; and the old hospice, which is the present site of the Regional Museum, with a magnificent Modernist painting collection.

The town also has many noble mansions, such as the houses of Solà-Morales, Vayreda, Trinxeria, Bolòs and Ventós. From Olot we can also take excursions to the nearby volcanic zone of La Garrotxa, declared a Nature Reserve.

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Josep Pujiula – Josep’s Labyrinth or Castle Argelaguer

Its reminiscent of Peter Pan’s Neverland – a huge adventure park, which inspires young and old. This complex of towers, cabins, caverns, channels and criss-cross tracks is situated on the outskirts of Argelaguer in the north of Catalonia by the road which leads to Olot. Some people find it a real challenge to find their way out of this labyrinth.

The network of branches, wires, planks and artifacts was constructed and created by Josep Pujiula, who detached, converted and rebuilt the complex three times in the last 40 years. The last time nine years ago because a road was built right through his park. Now there are new constructions and towers which challenge the visitors. Locals call this labyrinth “Castle Argelaguer” or “Josep’s Labyrinth” and at this place one can spend many hours. You can scale up to the towers and cabins using rickety rungs of ladders, cross small rope bridges, move through channels formed by branches or dare to see the caverns underneath the labyrinth – this place offers many challenges. But all these things aren’t completely harmless and there is a sign which warns you that you enter at your own risk, because there is no guarantee that the construction can stand up to the rigors of climbing permanently.

This fun for all ages is free of charge and open throughout the day to the public. A small box for donations is situated near the entrance – we should promote the madness.

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Empuriabrava - Carretera de Castelló a Empuriabrava

In the ancient world the butterfly (Lepidoptera) was a symbol of rebirth and immortality. Its color and lightness has always fascinated mankind. This is one reason why the world of butterflies was explored early on and to date approximately 170,000 species have been described. They all show an amazing diversity in size, shape and color.
The butterfly park in the “Aiguamolls de l’Empordà” on the Costa Brava attracts many visitors every year. Large colorful butterflies and exotic painted parrots live in the tropical jungle of the 1000 sqm greenhouse. Visitors can admire rare species live and in action. Exotic beauty that inspires.

Many artists have been enthused by butterflies, including the notorious Salvador Dalí. He painted a “Butterfly Queen” in 1951 and the well-known “Landscape with Butterflies” (“paysage aux papillons”). The butterfly is still a source of inspiration for creatives all around the world.

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